Building a 19' Banks Dory

Is that a compliment

2010-02-18T09:02:00.000-08:00

Compliment? What was that you said. Okay some back ground. My Bro drives for 2 day to get here and walks into the Garage. He obviously can't wait to see his boat. He circles around it looking, touching and not saying much. I am think "Yo dude how about some enthusiasm". At about that time he says "it look as good as a production hull". Oh...is that a compliment? To which he replies well what I meant was it is perfect. Well that helped. Are you saying you thought it would be anything less?

Time for a beer.

removing the strong back

2010-02-18T08:46:00.001-08:00

Oh it is a thing of beauty.
Now the other end and flip it off.
I did a good job of placing the 2x4
Hey I know your shoulder is hurt but do you think you can throw 2x4 under here when I lift it.
Taking the screws out.

flipping it over

2010-02-18T08:23:00.000-08:00

Almost got the fig tree.

Dog say let her go.
That's me in the black looking like I am doing something after shoulder surgery.
He is checking my work.
My brother came down to help finish the hull. Here i am placing moving pads on the ground

the painted hull

2010-02-18T08:16:00.000-08:00

looking quite nice.

what I did to apply the urethane.

2010-02-18T07:58:00.000-08:00

It was quite apparent to me that I am not very good a spraying the urethane. I had to try something else. But what you ask. Well I did a google search on applying urethane coatings. Read some forum posts discarded all the ego answers of you have to spay it for the best finish and decided to go with a foam roller and china bristle brush. I would have loved to had gotten pictures of this but it just wasn't possible for me by myself.

The trick is to just bearly wet the roller. Then roll it out on the surface until it is wet looking. This is important because if you try to make it cover like house paint it WILL RUN. I rolled the urethane on very lightly. I did the whole side then using the brush I drug the tip from stem to stern. Perfect sprayed on glass finish. No. But very respectable. Yes. I sanded between coats.

something I suck at

2010-02-18T07:41:00.000-08:00

The good part is...the blister patch looks good.
Used a squeegee to remove some before it hardened.
Okay It is pictures like this that make me drink. I am using a three part urethane coating. It is a military spec. commercial coating that apparently likes to be sprayed very thin. Ugh it took me 3 hrs to sand all the runs out.

filleting the rub rail

2010-02-18T07:31:00.000-08:00

Here is how it looks from a front view.
Then I went back and ran a finger along the joint to smooth it out.
Since I was fixing the blister I just made extra epoxy and filler and put it in a heavy duty ziplock bag. Then I nipped a corner off and used it like a cake decorator.

A blister in the glass

2010-02-18T06:24:00.000-08:00

You can see the material that has been removed.
before it gets rock hard I shaped it with a surf form
You can see the glass patch here.
Saturated it with epoxy... let sit... then added glass and filler.
Despite your best efforts some times a blister will happen. I cut it out and sanded it with coarse sandpaper.

Managing my blog

2010-02-18T05:54:00.000-08:00

Okay... call me a slacker. It's okay I can handle it. I will tell myself "you need to post". But I just haven't been on the ball. It is as much work for me to blog as to build the boat. Well my part of the boat is done. So I shall do my best to get this blog up to date.

Thank

Just incase someone needs reminded what I am working on

2009-08-05T13:47:00.000-07:00

Down for the Count

2009-08-04T15:45:00.000-07:00

I will do more updating soon and my brother is going to come help me paint it.

The weather was tough but we still had a good 2 days.

we got shark, bluefish, spanish, trout, and had grouper on that we couldn't turn with 50 lb. braided line. This one was just under 5'.

Well... I hit the road hard in a bike race and separated my shoulder. I am going in for surgery here in about a week and will be on lifting restriction for about 5 months. Shit that sucks. Got in one last fishing trip to Panama City though. Wonder what The Doctor would say to that. It hurt a good bit and I had to adapt to a new way of reeling in the bait caster when I had a fish on.

Some Pictures of the Oysterman in Action

2009-06-20T08:03:00.000-07:00

A picture to show the well that I left at the back to collect water for the bilge. Yes, I know I need to clean the boat.
Nice shark on the line.
The early days. That is a plywood Jonsboat on the right.
Have to get some of its name sake. Mmm. Oysters.
Being goofy. This is really to show the sole. I think it is foam filled with 1500 lbs. buoyancy (Too much time has passed to remember the actual amount. But, that is close.)
Not afraid to get her close to structure.
Moving out with a 25 hp. I forgot a hat so had to make one.
Looking for Reds. I fish from here a good bit.
You can hop out and walk it across ankle deep water full of gear.

I was asked about my Oysterman from someone in Florida. So, I am posting some pictures here. I love me some Florida fishin'.

Cutting the Rub Rail at the Transom

2009-06-20T07:29:00.000-07:00

Cut at the lines. Here you can see that I don't cut all the way through. I get it very close then use a utility knife to finish.

Getting the lines at the transom are much easier. Just run a straight edge down the transom make a mark. Then, lay it across both rub rails and make a mark.

Cutting the Rub Rails at the Bow

2009-06-20T06:54:00.000-07:00

A little bit of sanding to put a radius on it.
I use the power tool to cut the rub rail off. Be careful not to cut the hull.
Here I used a long straight edge run down the bow line. The front mark is the original line and the other is the transferred line.
Getting the lines is a bit tricky. I used a square to get the first marks at the start of the radius. See the lines that point forward? Those are at 90 degrees to the hull. I put a straight edge across those lines at the outside of the rub rail. Then I use a scribe (compass) to make the back marks. Set the depth of the scribe from the straight edge to the radius.

Here you can see that I just rough cut the rub rail to fit.

Attaching the Rub Rail

2009-06-20T06:05:00.001-07:00

Here I went back and put a screw in each side of the scarf. Note use shorter screws.
I used a clamp to work my way forward. I had to work fast and was not able to get photos of the front process. I worked one frame at a time switching from side to side.
As you can see, there will need to be a bit of pressure used to get the rub rails in place. Watch those scarf joints.
Both of the back rub rails on and moving to the front.
Here you can see how I ran the glue.
I did the back on one side. Then moved to the other.
I am using 3" ceramic coated screws and PL Premium polyurethane glue. Here you can see the screw and its position to the framing. IMPORTANT: Take note that the screw is off center to the frame. This is to avoid hitting the screw that was used to attach the plywood. I also made pilot holes so I wouldn't split the frame. Make sure that the rub rail is flush with the plywood and framing.
I made an index mark on the rub rail and the hull. This will allow me to apply the glue and run a screw into the hull and not worry about the for and aft position of the rub rail.
I am attaching the rub rail on my own so I'm using cheap labor (clamps). In this photo, I am just checking length and how much stress will be on the wood as it is bent around the hull. As always, I will try and provide photos as completely as possible.

Making the Rub Rail

2009-06-20T05:52:00.000-07:00

I am cheating here by using photos that have already been posted. Review the post from January and February.

Repeat the Fairing

2009-06-19T07:06:00.000-07:00

At this point you just keep adding the fairing slurry and sanding until you are satisfied with the finish.

Called the Epoxy Manufacturer

2009-06-18T21:04:00.000-07:00

The thing that I like about dealing with any company is customer service. U.S. Composites has always answered any question that I have and they don't make it seem like I am putting them out. I wanted to fair the boat again. But, I just wanted to make sure of the procedure of getting a good mechanical bond. Good thing that I called them because I was just going to coat over the sanded surface. The man I spoke with asked if I wiped it down with water before sanding. Oops! No, I hadn't. To which he said, "It would be a good idea to wash it really good because now there was probably going to be a wax residue down in the sanding marks." Oh well... so she got a bath.

Sand, Sand, Sand and Sand

2009-06-18T20:45:00.000-07:00

6 hrs of sanding and I am done the first fair and sand. Hopefully, only one more to go.
After about 5 hrs of straight sanding, my helper was ready for a walk.

Emptied this filter about 12 times.

Sanding. Good book. Here is a good example of high spots. Need to get them all out.
Just about this time I thought, "Hey, I need a book on tape."
Sanding.

Okay, this is going to be a bunch of pictures. The light areas are where I have sanded. Here you can already see the high spots showing up.

The Aftermath of Fairing

2009-06-18T20:32:00.000-07:00

When I am working alone with resin, there is no time to be a neat freak. That fairing mix just goes everywhere.

Hey

2009-06-18T20:23:00.000-07:00

I have gotten some e-mails from a couple of people and am glad to answer any questions. So feel free to ask. I do remember what it was like to try and find information.

1st Coat of Fairing

2009-04-17T05:22:00.000-07:00

Done 1st coat of the whole boat. I prefer to skim thin coats of the fairing on. Before the chemical bond time elapses, I will skim another coat. Then, let it cure a couple of days and sand.
Done this side.
Take note of the blade angle. This allows me to smooth the fairing without removing it.
I like to use steel blade drywall trowels. That is what I am used to and they allow me to put pressure on either edge to feather it.
By this time in the build, you are probably mixing the epoxy in your sleep. So mix up a batch and add the fairing compound. You will think, "Hey this stuff is never going to mix in." Then, in the next three stirs it's mixed. The thickness is to your preference. Most of the information out there will say "think peanut butter."

Prepping for Fairing

2009-04-16T05:52:00.000-07:00

Here I sanded the whole boat. I was right at the edge of the cure time. So, I decided to sand.
I used 60 grit sand paper and worked down the edge
There are several ways to cut it off. The way that I prefer is to sand it.
Here you can see the excess glass hanging down. Also, in the photo is a good example of the texture of the weave of the cloth that needs to be filled.

Epoxying the Side

2009-04-16T05:40:00.000-07:00

Here, I think I was directed to a run.

To do the bow start on one side and lap over.
Start pouring and spreading

Glassing the Sides

2009-04-16T05:26:00.001-07:00

Trim, trim, trim.
Start cutting the excess off. I left a 3" overlap at all seams.
Roll the fabric out. Helps to have an extra hand.
Saturate the sides with epoxy and let it soak in.

How to Cut and Fold the Ends

2009-04-16T05:15:00.000-07:00

Remove excess epoxy. Nice and clean.
Here I folded the side overlap first. Then, folded the bottom down.
Use the scissors and cut up to the corner at an angle.

Laying the Glass on the Bottom

2009-04-09T06:10:00.000-07:00

Done the first layer on the bottom. You can see here also that I epoxy saturated the sides. They are next.
Moving right along.
You can see my ace mixer in the background going to town. I just pour it out and spread.
Working end to end and from center out. This helps in pulling out the excess cloth.
Start at one end and work across.
Lay it over the bottom making sure to be careful not to disrupt the weave. Get it as flat as possible.
I pre-cut the cloth. It is 7.5 oz.

Taping the Bottom Seam with 3" Glass

2009-04-08T15:37:00.000-07:00

Apply a small amount of epoxy and squeegee the excess off.

I cut the piece to length before any of the bottom was epoxied. Then, lay it in place from one direction.

Wood Saturation

2009-04-08T15:26:00.000-07:00

Here you can see (the dull spots) where the epoxy has soaked into the plywood. I skimmed some more epoxy over it before I laid the cloth.
Coat the plywood with the epoxy. Then let it soak in. I did not do the sides completely yet because I will lay the cloth on the bottom first. Then I will use the extra mixed epoxy to saturate the sides.

Wet on wet? No, not mud wrestling. Epoxy.

2009-04-08T15:10:00.000-07:00

Okay, I have waited to get good weather and for it to happen on a weekend. The reason that I need the weekend is I like to do my epoxy wet on wet. So what is wet on wet? It is applying layer after layer of epoxy before the previous one has cured. This allows a chemical bond. I have on previous boats gotten out bed in the middle of the night to re-coat a boat. I just like the thought of a chemical bond. If you do not make the cure deadline, you must sand the area completely and then apply the epoxy (follow the manufacturer's instructions). This will result in a mechanical bond. Not that a mechanical bond is bad (as you will see epoxy sticks to almost everything you don't want it to). I just like the thought of as much of the boat being done with a chemical bond.

The Epoxy Mix and Trading Out

2009-04-08T14:53:00.000-07:00

Stir it well and then stir it some more. Make sure that you scrape the sides when you are stirring.
This is my neighbor. She is a retired chemist. She would have come on over and spent the day doing this just for fun. But, she needed a door removed and a new one installed. So, it just worked out for both of us. Plus, she was a quality control Nazi. She would say, "Hey, you have a run over here." She's a good women and a good helper. I guess I should give credit here to too to my wife for all the pictures of the epoxy phase.
Hardener.
Resin.
This is how I keep from making a mistake. The mix for medium is 3 to 1.

Filling the Seams and Screw Holes

2009-04-08T06:36:00.000-07:00

Then, I sanded the seams and screw holes.

You can see how it works.
Using a metal scraper to remove the high spots.
A little bit of a run. Don't worry about it.
Fill in the seams and screw holes.

The Epoxy and Fairing Compound

2009-03-31T06:10:00.000-07:00

Laying Out the Glass

2009-03-25T06:36:00.000-07:00

Here I have it rolled up and ready to store until I need it.
Be careful it is easy to alter the weave.
I did not cut it yet because I wanted to make sure I had enough. So I rolled it up and carried it back to zero and rolled out the remainder. Since I actually ordered the right amount of glass I cut off the first roll and rolled up the second.
I clamped a tape measure to the stem and measured the length of the sheer clamp. Then I placed the tape on the floor and rolled the cloth out.
Folding it up for later use.
I trimmed the bottom glass with a 6" overhang.
I had a friend that altered the cutting edge with Carbide in order to cut kevlar. I have owned these since the late 80's and they rock.
5 yards 6 oz. After I do the bottom and sides I will go back and use this as a second layer on the bottom.
20 yards of 7.5 oz. This will be used as 1 layer for bottom and sides.

Thought on Epoxy

2009-03-25T06:01:00.000-07:00

I have been on the fence of whether or not to include an epoxy tutorial. There is so much information on the web that it just is not needed as a repeat. So, I recommend just doing a search and then read, read, read. Also, I will remind you that most of the epoxies out there have different mixing volumes. Therefore, pay attention to the mixing directions of the product you choose.

I remember my first boat like it was yesterday. Okay, like it was last week maybe. But, I do remember fretting about doing the epoxy to the point of losing sleep. I read all the horror stories on the web and people trying to make it into rocket science... it's not. Just read the directions, mix thoroughly and apply. It is that easy.

Floor Protection

2009-03-25T05:49:00.000-07:00

I also used red rosin paper. It's usually located in the roofing section of the hardware store. This was left over from a hardwood installation as extra protection. Here you can also see the duct tape.
Heavy duty plastic. Tape edges with 6-8" duct tape.

A Little More Work on the Transom

2009-03-24T20:38:00.001-07:00

After cutting I used the router to trim it up. Here you can see that the routering left some fuzz. Just sand it off.
Cut.
Cut.
You can see the two marks.
This time the straight edge was lined up with the transom framing.
I used a straight edge along the sheer clamp to make a line.

Trimming the Plywood to the Sheer Clamp

2009-03-24T20:22:00.000-07:00

finished.

I drew a line across that there little piece and cut it off. then trimmed it flush.
You can see the first trimming to the left and untrimmed to the right. I had to go back and readjust the depth and make another run.
I used a laminate trimming bit.

A Word on Epoxy

2009-03-23T07:56:00.000-07:00

Shaping the Bow

2009-03-23T07:19:00.000-07:00

This photo is showing the bow after filling and shaping. A nice arc and radius.
After the first batch sets and before it cures re-coat, if necessary. Here you can see I had a little bit of flair that needed filled.
Mix the epoxy and wet out the wood first let is a few minutes will you mix the wood flour into the epoxy. Get it to about the consistency of peanut butter. Then fill and shape as best you can. It will not be perfect the first time.
Here I used a block and some plastic wrap as a stop.
I would like to say that I left that gap on purpose. But, the truth of the matter is oops. Oh well that is what they make epoxy and wood flour for. Right?

Fairing the Bottom and Transom Edges

2009-03-23T07:02:00.000-07:00

The next three photos show the radius. The radius is done to allow the fiberglass cloth to smoothly lap over the edges.
When fairing the bottom and transom it is important to radius the plywood.
You already know what these are for.

Glue and Screw the Bottom On

2009-03-23T06:14:00.000-07:00

She is looking good now.
Liberally glue the bottom. Make sure to fill in all the holes (bolt heads)in the framing members with the glue. I made marks on the side panels to show where the bottom frames where. Then drew lines across the bottom panels to show where to screw.

Bottom Panels

2009-03-23T05:56:00.000-07:00

Use a pencil and scribe the outside. Then remove and cut the bottom panels out.
Put the second piece on and tack in place. Make sure it is tight to the spacer nails.

Two pieces will do the bottom. As you can see here I used a frame member to attach the bottom butt to. I used nails as stops and tacked the plywood in place. As a note: I don't know if this is acceptable. But, it is what I did. Maybe if the designer reads this he will give his opinion on the best way.

Transom Panel

2009-03-23T05:29:00.000-07:00

I faired the plywood at the keelson in order to get ready for the bottom planking.
You can see here that the plywood will need to be faired down.

Add glue and screw it in place.

Cut it out.
I used a piece of plywood that was left from the sides and leaned it against the transom. Then trace out the outline.

Fairing the Sides

2009-03-23T05:13:00.000-07:00

Here I had to sand the copper wire off. Remember it was used to keep the boat set to rocker.

Set the angle as close as possible and trim the wood.
There is a lot of overhang here so I am going to cut it off.
The side grinder is a great tool for this. Be careful it eats wood.
As you can see here the sides where left big. Time to fair them down.

I Glassed it Today

2009-03-22T18:59:00.000-07:00

I have about three days of good weather ahead of me finally. So, I was able to get the glass on. I will let it sit for about 3 days then get to sanding. That means I will have time to post more of the step. I have tons of photos. Will post some tomorrow.

I am Slacking

2009-03-20T19:30:00.000-07:00

I must admit that I am letting people down a bit here lately by not posting. But, I have been on vacation in Florida. It is my annual pilgrimage away from the cold. So, I hooked the Oysterman to my truck and headed down to the Punta Gorda area on the Gulf. The weather this year was fabulous with every day in the 80's and light chop. The water temp was 68 degrees the day we arrived and went up to 71 the day we left.

I now get onto the fishing report. All fishing was inshore out of homemade boats with 25 hp or less. We were on the water 6 to 8 hours each day and fished hard. I lost count after about day 4. We caught Reds, Snook, Speck, Jacks, Mackerel, Lady Fish, Bluefish, Grouper and some Grey Snapper. The total was over 400 fish. One night we fished the lights on some docks with 5" Rapala stick baits and caught 15 Snook in an hour and a half. It was incredible to watch those Snook all stacked up waiting for the tide to push the bait.

Oh and I forgot about the sharks. We would keep all the Lady Fish we caught and used them for chum. We also cast netted mullet and used it for cut bait. We just anchored on a 6' deep flat and cut up some of the fish and put it in an orange grove bag along with intervals of canned Mackerel. We ended up with 12 to the boat and three cut offs.

Oh Yes! Time to Skin it with Plywood

2009-03-05T16:40:00.000-08:00

Sides on. My helper, the boat owner, had to leave the next day. My dog checking out the work.
The glue squeezing out.
The butt block ready for the other side. It is made from two pieces of 1/2" laminated together. PL Premium applied and ready to go.
Here you can see the lines, joint and screw pattern. Notice that the butt joint in the plywood is screwed to the butt block.
This panel was hard to bend so he is tying it off with a string. Repeat the process of trace and cut.
I added a temporary spacer.
Okay, the panels are cut out and glue was applied to the framing members. Then, we made line and screwed it in place.
We then took a pencil and traced around the edges. Here he is cutting out the panel. Notice that he is leaving an extra 1/2" inch. That is carpenter talk for leave extra. Also, we stacked panels so we were cutting both sides at the same time. If you decide to cut the plywood stacked, make sure that the good faces are opposite of each other.
Double checking that it is parallel and there is enough hanging down.
I don't think that there is any particular way to start the plywood. So I started at the transom and went forward. Clamp the plywood to the boat frames making sure that the end edge is parallel to the vertical frames. (It is where his left hand is located in this photo.)

Ok, I'm at this point. But, I will fill in the steps between later.

2009-02-10T08:27:00.000-08:00

6 Hours of Bolting. Ugh.

2009-02-10T07:50:00.000-08:00

They are going well.
All these to put in.
Bolts in the stem.
Pilot hole.
The plans don't call for it. But, we bolted the sheer clamp. Here we are counter sinking.

A Fairing Picture Essay

2009-02-10T07:21:00.001-08:00

Love those wood chips. Notice it is missing a set of frames. We went back after it was faired and added it.
Used a disk sander with 24 grit to do the finish work.
Hack away. Let the chips fly. Oh, but be careful. This is a ships builder adz. Love this tool.
Make scarf cuts. This one is from the tip of the bow to the line that we chose to the next frame back.
Run it from chine log to sheer clamp. Scribe a line down the length. Check both sides of the frame member.
Use a straight edge.

Wow! We are looking like something now.

2009-02-10T07:17:00.000-08:00

Time to fair it up.

Hey, what's up with that?

2009-02-10T06:56:00.000-08:00

Here it is after the re-cut. Much better. Now apply glue and screw it in place. Make sure it is centered.
I am doing the stem brace. But, the design on the plan is wrong or the stem angle is. I mean... it wouldn't be my fault. Time to check the measurements. Oops... it was me. Look close at the new line I made after re-checking the plans.

The Tricky Sheer Clamp to the Stem

2009-02-10T05:55:00.000-08:00

Here is the end joint. For those of you that don't want to go through all that wood working stuff this joint can be a simple bevel/miter cut. Glue and screw. Also, at this point loosen the stem from the Keelson apply glue and re-tighten.
Here you can see the mortise in the stem. Just take your time and cut and fit. Cut and fit and cut and fit.
I don't remember what it was. But, because of the angle the sheer clamp came into the stem, I made a bevel cut to make the fit easier.
This is a complex cut if you chose to mortise it. You can see the pencil line that represents the top of the stem on the plans. I like to leave my stem long to tie stuff to and I just think it looks cool. That is up to you to figure out.

Length: Now that the sheer clamp is squeezed together carefully cut it to length. Tip: Go slow. Notice it is an angled and beveled cut. Make sure both sides are the same length. Remember what you do to one side you do to the other. It makes them both wrong.

Bending the Sheer Clamp to the Stem

2009-02-10T05:28:00.000-08:00

Look at the red one. It is being used to put upward tension to get it tight to the frame cutout.
We used cargo straps and went slowly .

Chine Log to the Transom

2009-02-10T04:56:00.001-08:00

Now loosen the transom at the Keelson and apply glue. Then re-attach with screws. Go back and double/triple check it all for straightness and good lines.
Here you can see the mortises. Squeeze the chine log together at the transom. Use a clamp to hold them in place. VERY IMPORTANT: Now make sure that the transom is centered use your reference mark to help you determine this. Now get down to the level of the chine log and sight along its length. Look for the natural arc and continue it to the transom. This is where it needs to be. Cut out and apply glue and screw the sheer clamp in place.
When you get the chine log around to the transom there are two choices. 1. Make a miter cut and glue and screw it. 2. You can mortise out an area for the chine log to recess into. This gives more surface area for the glue. We chose to mortise.

Attaching the Chine Log to Frames

2009-02-10T04:41:00.000-08:00

Just a picture showing how long the sheer clamp was.
Repeat the steps used to install the Chine log. Don't forget the reference lines and to glue and screw.

Cutting the Frames Out for the Sheer Clamp

2009-02-08T05:53:00.000-08:00

Here they are cut out. Wow! The sun is shining.
Now it is time to repeat what we learned on the chine log. But, this one is much easier. Use your blocks again and make marks.

Setting the Transom

2009-02-08T05:41:00.000-08:00

Here I used a 2x4 to brace the transom at its intended angle. I just screwed the other end into the vertical support of the strongback.
These pictures were actually taken later on in the build. But, it is at this point that you must temporarily install the transom. As with the stem, I don't know where the center of the boat will be at the sheer clamp so I didn't glue it until later. Also, I didn't leave much room for fairing the transom sides. This eventually left me with a half inch surface bevel.

Cutting Sheer Clamp

2009-02-08T05:17:00.001-08:00

Using the surface planner to fair it to 1x2".
A look at the scarf joint. It is hard to tell that is even there.
Here we have ripped the sheer clamp to 1 1/8" thick. It is 22' long at this point. So, it easier to handle it with two people.

Fairing the Chine Log

2009-01-30T11:13:00.000-08:00

Here I used my jigsaw to fair to the line and the inside edge of the chine log. The picture has a view of both the uncut and cut.

Draw lines along the bottom of each cross cut. Here is a view of the bottom of the cross cut to the keelson.

Another picture of the cross cut in the chine log.
I use an old hand saw to cut the top edge of the chine log. Make sure that you don't drop the heel of the saw. The cut will be how you get your lines.

Chine Log to Stem

2009-01-30T08:37:00.000-08:00

A top view.

Now I added the stem. It is only screwed in place at this point because I don't know where the center will be until I do the sheer clamp.

For this part, I just squeeze the chine logs together and eye the arc. Checking to see how close it is with the measurement on the plan. Make marks and cut the length of the chine log. Mortise out. Glue and screw the chine log

Transom End Cuts

2009-01-30T08:27:00.000-08:00

Here you can see that I am wearing the standard issue red and black flannel shirt that all wood workers wear. :<) Sorry I didn't take any pictures of the cutouts for the chine log at the transom. Here you can see some detail of that though. Using the angle of the chine log, I am cutting off the sides of the keelson.

Setting the Chine Log

2009-01-30T08:23:00.000-08:00

Remember work out from the center. So, if you do a frame at the front when both sides are done move to the next one to the back and then front, back, front. Check to see how everything is measuring up use those reference mark to help with this. Also sight across those frames to make sure the boat isn't twisting. Do this by standing at the bow or transom and look at the bottom frames. All gaps should be equal.
Do one frame. Then, go to the other side of that frame and do the same thing. Make sure that the measurement between the frames station you are working on is the same (right/left). Even with two of us we still needed clamps to keep it in place while we checked all of the measurements.
Okay remember that we made reference marks on the chine log. These go to the outside so they are easily viewed when installing. Line up a reference mark on the edge of one of the center frames. Make sure the chine log is centered on the boat and glue and screw it. I like to start in the middle of the boat and work my way out. Remember what you do to one side you need to do to the other. This ensures that it will be equally wrong. :<).

Finding the Location of the Chine Log at the Transom

2009-01-30T08:06:00.000-08:00

I don't want to say that this is difficult. But, it does take some time to get all of the alignment down. Here you can see where we changed or minds once. Scribble, scribble.
Keep bending it around till it hits the keelson. You can see that I have temporarily attached the transom. Now lift it on top of the keelson. Try to align the chine log so the outside edge is in alignment with the outside of the transom. Now move it in another 1/2" to allow for the fairing of the transom sides. Then, you need to scribe a line along side the chine log on the keelson. Man, I have a headache just from writing that.
Clamp chine log to the frames. This is a good time to check the fit of the cut outs.

Assuring the Rocker

2009-01-30T07:58:00.000-08:00

Here the wire is in place and the clamps removed.
As mentioned in an earlier post, I was afraid the 2x6 yellow pine would not want to stay bent for the rocker. This was confirmed when I loosened the clamp some and it rose with the clamp face. I was going to use all thread and some bolts to hold it down. My brother asked if I had any copper wire. Which I did so we drilled holes.

Hey what happened to the chine log installation?

2009-01-28T09:37:00.000-08:00

I know I skipped forward to the sheer clamp splicing and there is a good reason for this. I had mentioned to my brother that this is the point at which the Oysterman almost made the burn pile. Yes, my friends the beloved Oysterman almost wasn't. At that time, it would be the second boat that I built. Having never built a plywood on frame boat, I had no clue what to expect. Oh was it frustrating attaching the chine to a frame and seeing the boat go out of alignment. It is a long story that ends with the thought that it would be an easier task with two people. So, to my surprise my brother called and said he was coming down for a few days. I found out later that the motive was just to protect his investment. I don't blame him much. The nightmares he must have had of his sailboat frame in flames... me sitting next to it warming my hands waiting for the coals to get just so. Oh yes, an adult beverage and some steaks ready for the fire.

Oops I have strayed. Time for more pictures.

Gluing the Sheer Clamp

2009-01-28T09:27:00.000-08:00

PL Premium and screws. Use pilot holes so they don't crack. Let dry and hope that the real boss doesn't complain.
Way too cold to do this in the shop. So here they are on the floor of the living room and kitchen. Good thing I am the boss of this house. :<)

Making the Scarf Cut on the Sheer Clamp

2009-01-28T09:05:00.000-08:00

Made the cut with a circular saw.
The scarf is a six to one ratio. So, I use my combination square to scribe a 1" thick line. Are you thinking why didn't you just rip it 1" to begin with? My thought on this is, by leaving it thicker now I will have a bigger platform for making the cut on. Then I will rip it to size after I glue it up. Now measure back from the end 6" and make a mark across the scribe line. Now connect a line from the corner to the intersecting line. Repeat on all of the boards and clamp them together with the angled lines touching end to end. You should have something like the picture above.
I ripped these out of a 2x10"x12'. They are now 1 1/2x 2 1/4" x12'.

Chine Log Cuts

2009-01-28T08:58:00.000-08:00

Moving along.
Cut line. My cutting tool of choice. Look at that aggressive blade. This is all freestyle cutting. Have fun.
See line.

Just some photos to show how I transferred the measurements

2009-01-28T08:48:00.001-08:00

Use the bevel square to just the top angle

Layout of the Chine Log Cutouts

2009-01-28T07:01:00.000-08:00

Connect all lines. As a note: I only did the block on one side. Then, I took measurements and transfered them to the other side of the same frame. My thought on this is that if it ends up wrong at least it will be wrong on both sides.

I use a longer piece of wood as a slighter. By putting it on top of the frames and stepping back to look at it, I create an imaginary line out from the block. Now, I split the difference from the end of the frames and this will give the angle of the cut. See the different profile between the block and the tracing on the frame?
Here I use the block as a pattern. Be careful you must allow for the fairing of the chine log. Notice that I align the inside corner of the block with the frame bottom. This leaves the outside up about a quarter inch. Do this on both sides of the frame. But you must sight across the bottom of the frame to the keelson. This will give you the amount of rocker angle that needs to be left in on the bottom frame member. That sounds confusing but it will be noticeable at this stage. The picture posted here is in the center of the boat where there isn't much rocker.
I took the chine log and wrapped it around the outside of the frames to check the length. I had about 6 inches of extra length which allowed me to cut a short block.

Chine Log Layout

2009-01-28T06:50:00.000-08:00

I should have done a close up. Here are the reference marks. I found center and did the same measurement out in each direction. This is just an easier way to double check the frame are straight when installing the chine log.
I remembered a mistake that I made when I built my Oysterman. So, I decided to make reference marks. Clamp the chine legs together.

Chine Log

2009-01-28T06:32:00.000-08:00

Used the surface planner to fair them up.
I actually ripped this board on two different side because of cosmetic reasons. Then ripped it down the middle.
If you look close, I have a rip guide on this saw. The thing about this saw is the switch broke and when it is squeezed it stays on until the switch is pulled down. It makes the perfect saw for ripping.
Using a combo square to scribe a mark for the rip.
Still using pieces from the original yellow pine.

The Stem

2009-01-28T05:19:00.000-08:00

The 240lbs. press. I used 3" Deckmates to secure the pieces together. Notice I cut the angle of the stem already.
Glue applied and ready for the press.
Trace the profile and cut.
Looking good.
Using the bandsaw to cut the arc.
Transfer the dimension to the 2x6. I used a 1/2" strip of wood to make the arc. Do this by driving nails in at the top, bottom and middle.

Time for the Keelson

2009-01-16T16:47:00.001-08:00

Needed to clamp the keelson down in place. Wonder if it will give me trouble later? Starting to look like something.
All the frames I can put on now. She has a good bit of rocker in her. The yellow pine is tough to bend.

A close up.
Just a picture to show center lines.
I used pipe clamps to line the center lines up. Also used a clamp to push down on the Keelson to get it to stay on the rocker blocks. Then, I used 3" Deckmates to screw it in place.
Rip the keelson to the specified width on the plans. Pick the side that will go down and mark a center line on it. I used a combination square to do this. Then lay the keelson over the frames. I centered it on the frames checked to make sure it would all line up then flipped the keelson over out of the way. Put glue on each frame then flip the keelson back in place.

Setting the frames

2009-01-16T16:35:00.000-08:00

Here is a photo showing a frame attached to a vertical 2x4. Notice the center lines match up. Repeat for each frame.
Screw them to the vertical 2x4
Lay the frames over the rocker blocks.

Rocker Blocks and Attaching Blocks

2009-01-14T10:06:00.000-08:00

Install the attaching block with two 3" screws through the side. Also, notice that when the rocker lessened I used just a straight rip piece.
This is a closer view of the rocker block.
I start in the center and work out in each direction with my layout of the frames. Take your time and check the measurements well. Then, I place the rocker block in the center of the frame marks. If you look close, you can see where I transfered the frame location. It is the O with the X in it.
Then made sure it had the center line marked on both sides.
For the attaching blocks, I used scrap 2x4 and cut them around 9" long.

Strongback

2009-01-14T09:37:00.001-08:00

I used 3" Deckmates to put it all together.

Add some angled 2x4 to keep it from racking and there it is a rolling strongback. Ok, I was impatient and wanted to see how the frames looked .
I then put a 2x6x14' on the outside of the legs. Notice my favorite type of helper. You gotta love clamps when you work alone. Repeat on the other side making sure the 2x6's are the same height.
The 2x6 spacer attached to the legs.

The bottom of the boat is around 14'. So, I use a 2x6 12' for my leg spacer. The legs are 2x4 screwed together flat. I made them to long and had to cut them down some. They ended up at 38". Also, I left one an 1 1/2" long and lapped it over the edge of my bottom piece.
Oh yes, we need some locking 3" casters. The holes are pretty big. So I used some #10 washers and 1 5/8" Deckmates.
Scrap lumber for my bottom pieces. About 46" long.

The Transom

2009-01-11T07:28:00.001-08:00

Finished joint. Glue and screw.
Cut out.
Do the radius transom piece the same way as the layout board with string and pencil. Lap joint and mark.
Put one piece on the pattern board and mark the center line and make cut. Check fit and adjust, if necessary. Then use as a pattern for the the other side. Cut out and check. Here I have also put a block under the pieces for the next step.

Assembling the Frames

2009-01-11T07:14:00.000-08:00

I used PL Premium and screws at this point. I will put a bolt through each joint later.
Use the pattern board for layout.
All pieces cut and numbered.

Cut Sides to Length

2009-01-10T16:14:00.000-08:00

Cut the left and right at the same time. Remember to tuck that thumb under.
Scribe the length and angle.
Just follow the lines.

Making Bottom Part of Frames

2009-01-10T15:57:00.000-08:00

Then finished with a bandsaw. You could do it all with a jigsaw.
If you use the chopsaw, lean the top of the board away from the fence to get an even cut.
I used a paddle bit to drill the radius.

Use the pattern board to get the length. The speed square will helps with the angles. Mark the center line boldly. Then, mark the cut out for the keelson.

Making Framing Material and Sawdust

2009-01-09T07:49:00.000-08:00

I used a combination square to make a reference line and a circular saw with a rip guide. Then, true up the width with a planer.

Selecting the Wood

2009-01-09T05:48:00.000-08:00

The framing will be yellow pine and the plywood 1/2" AC (oh... I hear the murmuring). I had read somewhere that the best framing wood is used in 2x10" and 2x12". So, this is where I always start my search. I look for low knot content and tight grain. I found these 2x12" at a big box store.

Laying Out the Frames on Plywood

2008-12-24T10:08:00.000-08:00

Time 1 hour.

Plans and Paper.
Make a center line.
Transfer measurements and draw lines.
How I did the radius.

Finished panel.
Take your time and look for symmetry.

Some Words

2008-12-24T06:08:00.000-08:00

I have depended on other people's websites and blogs in researching "how to" on many occasions and find them invaluable. It is my intention to provide you with one way of building a plywood on frame boat. Plan dimensions and angles will be left out to protect the design rights. For plans of this boat go to www.spirainternational.com.

Sticking with a picture is worth a thousand words. Most of my posts will be pictures with a title of the step.

I am sure some builders will not like the fact that this it a budget build that uses lumberyard materials. I built my Oysterman the same way and store it in the garage. It is 5 years old now and holding up quite well. I guess my thought is... I would rather build a budget boat than not have one due to cost.

I have found that most of the plans that I have purchased are lacking in some way. There is a dimension left out here or there or some details don't make sense. My Oysterman almost made the burn pile before it was completely framed. It just wouldn't stay straight. I didn't have the experience to know to work a frame at a time and alternate sides. It is a process of on-the-job training that if the designers listed every part of, they probably won't sell many plans. Everything about the first boat is the hardest. Plan selection, what materials and, of course, starting the boat. So, I hope that these posts help. And, good building!

His Labor

2008-12-24T04:58:00.000-08:00

I am his free labor by virtue of being his brother. And, I should admit that I also love building boats. I have built 2 Piraguas - 1 tack and tape and 1 stitch and glue. A Spira International 16' Carolina Dory that is plywood on frame. A 16' plywood Michalak Jonsboat that was tack and tape. I helped my other brother build a Bateau FS18 which is a stitch and glue. I will post the photos. (Note: All boat names are spelled as the designers have spelled them.)

Piragua
FS18
Oysterman

There is no disputing that being in on the water runs in our veins. Add that to a love for wood working and the world gets some help with preserving parts of the past.

The way this is going to work is I am going to do the framing, plywood, fiberglass and exterior painting . Then, the boat will make the 700 mile trip up north for my brother to do the work on the inside of the boat.

Next: the process

A dory, why?

2008-12-17T07:33:00.000-08:00

Hopefully after it is built most people will be too polite to say: "Why the devil did you decide to build that boat?"

Here is why. 3 images, or maybe newsreel clips in my head, stand out.

First, One of my brothers (his boat), my wife and I in a 10' fiberglass shell hull dingy type, on the water in Maryland, crabbing. It was so long ago I only remember that when another boat passed us and their bow wave was heading for us I looked at how close the edge of the boat was to the water already and how high the wave looked, quickly glancing at the distant shore thinking I can make that. Finally my brother saying hang on. We did not swamp but it was eerie knowing how those boat people from Cuba must feel in a dangerously overloaded boat.

Second, fast forward 10 years. It's approaching the first day of summer and all the camping sites in 3 states are booked full. After a couple of hours calling various state park's headquarters finally someone says "everything is full...except for the primitive sites on the island." The deal is sealed. We are going camping on our own island. Everyone is excited. We load the canoe, and 2 sit-on-top kayaks, a big cooler, all our camping gear, and the dog. Drive 3 hours south to Jane's Island State Park. We arrive at noon (8 hours or so till dark). The young lady at the desk has no idea what I am talking about because every site is booked. 10 minutes go by. "Oh you want to go out there? We don't run those through the regular books. Hang on. You be set up in a minute. One last thing we aren't responsible for your safety, you have to agree that you have the skills for this kind of trip" Hmmm...sure I understand. It was a 4 mile paddle, the first half mile was a protected canal, then it opened up into a small "backwater" in the marsh then into the Chesapeake Bay...

We say we had a good time, we may remember having a good time. We were very lucky someone did not die. I did think at one point, Tomorrow's newspaper headline --"Total idiot father leads family to maritime catastrophe".

It all started with...

2008-12-16T14:03:00.001-08:00

Spira International's 19' banks dory plans.